ALb. Weather

The terrain of the Albuquerque Metropolitan Area produces a diverse growing season across the Rio Grande Valley, from the Sandia foothills to the West Mesa. Generally, the growing season is shortest in the valley, where cold air drainage leads to earlier freezes in the autumn, and later freezes in the spring. Lack of data prevents real precise average dates of first and last freezes in the foothills, but long-term records at the Albuquerque International Airport (elevation 5300 feet) can be used for an accurate assessment of the growing season for much of the city.

Due to the cold air drainage into the valley, early morning temperatures tend to be about five degrees higher over the heights and west mesa. However, as you climb higher into the eastern foothills, this trend eventually reverses. Consequently, it is likely that the growing season in the eastern foothills, above 6000 feet, is not much different from the valley. People living in those areas above 6000 feet should use the valley freeze dates for planning, instead of the heights.

The most extensive temperature records in the city are those from the National Weather Service. However, from 1893 until 1931, the instruments were moved from place to place, ranging from elevations of 4950 feet to 5100 feet. Since 1931, complete records have been kept at the site now known as Albuquerque International Airport. Perhaps the complete records can be seen as the extreme scenario, while records since 1931 can be viewed as accurate for most purposes.

Since 1893, the earliest freeze on record was on September 18, 1912. The latest freezes on record were May 27, 1917 and May 27, 1918. The latest date for the first freeze of the autumn was November 17, 1963. The earliest date for the last freeze of the spring was March 18, 1990 (though technically, this is still considered winter). The following tables give dates that should be more meaningful for different sections of the Middle Rio Grande Valley, along with the number of years of record for each location.

The following tables include both date for first temperature at or below 32 degrees and for first temperatures at or below 28 degrees. These data are grouped according to National Weather Service climatologic and New Mexico crop reporting divisions.

Albuquerque is high desert with the altitude at 5,000 feet and higher. With the high altitude, the atmosphere is thin. Many plants also struggle with the intense solar radiation. The altitude is also responsible for temperatures cooling at night.

Temperature
Heat and wind are commonplace especially during the spring and summer months and cause plants to be dry. But evenings are cool and it’s cooler in the shade.

	Albuquerque Climate Summary Period of Record: 1/1/1914 – 4/30/2000
	Month Averages		Jan		Feb		Mar		Apr		May		Jun		Jul		Aug		Sep		Oct		Nov		Dec		Annual
Max. Temp.		47.1		53.2		60.7		70.0		79.3		89.3		91.7		88.9		82.4		71.1		57.0		47.8		69.9
Min. Temp.		23.1		27.5		32.8		40.6		49.8		59.0		64.4		62.8		55.9		43.8		31.2		24.4		43.0
Total Precip.		0.37		0.38		0.51		0.51		0.67		0.64		1.36		1.50		0.96		0.88		0.43		0.49		8.71
Total Snow		2.4		1.9		1.7		0.6		0.0		0.0		0.0		0.0		0.0		0.1		1.1		2.4		10.3

Plants dry out during the day and appear to be “wilty” in the afternoon. Wait until evening or the next morning before you decide if it needs water. Many plants wilt as a response to heat, but recover as soon as the heating of the day is over.

Oceans are the main source of water for the earth and Albuquerque is far away from any ocean. Mountains offer more challenges for water to make it into the area. Any moisture that must travel over a mountainous area tends to dry on the windward side, thus leaving little moisture for the leeward side. As moisture is forced upward in elevation, it tends to cool and condense and by the time the moisture makes it over the mountain, there is not a lot left. Therefore, since there are several mountain chains between Albuquerque and any oceans, it is difficult for any moisture to make it into the area.

Another challenge for any rain to make it to the ground is that the air for most months is very dry thus a lot of rainfall evaporates before it reaches the ground. This can be frequently be observed and is called virga. Coincidentally this is also a main reason why so many people in New Mexico are struck by lightning. Most people do not head indoors during a thunderstorm until it starts raining. So while many of these storms are producing virga where none of the rain is making it to the ground, there is still plenty of lightning. Gardeners are considered in a high-risk group since gardens are located outside, so it is important to remember common sense when a thunderstorm approaches. The weeds will still be there after the shower and in fact it may make it easier to weed when the soil has received a little rain.

The number of days between the last spring frost and the first frost of winter is called the GROWING SEASON. In Albuquerque, we have, on average, a growing season of 150 to 191 days, depending on where you live.
    You can safely set out tender plants after the last frost of the season, but how do you know when the last frost has occurred? Fortunately, weather experts have been keeping records for many years and from these records we learn that the last frost date in Albuquerque generally occurs between April 18^th and May 8^th. However, these dates are from the “averages” over the years, and as we already know it is impossible to know if this year is going to be “average.”
    So to be safe, you can probably plant by the end of April, but you should watch weather reports closely and be prepared to protect tender plants with coverings of cloth, plastic jugs, or mulch if a late frost is predicted. You can plant earlier, but then you need to be vigilant for the following weeks.
    Weather statistics for Albuquerque are gathered at the airport, valley, foothill, and mountain locations. Keep in mind that the foothill and mountain locations will have later frost dates.

The FIRST FROST means the first autumn night when temperatures dip low enough to kill tender foliage. This typically occurs around October 26^th, but it can happen earlier. You need to know the date for your area so you can figure how many days you have to “make a crop” when planting vegetables. If you plant squash on July 1^st, and the seed packet says 95 days to maturity, you should have squash ready to harvest in October, but that this could be cutting it close to the first frost. For such a late planting date, a faster-maturing variety would be a better choice.

The climate varies significantly from the valley to the tops of the mountains, and there are many different climates between these two extremes. Some areas are warmer, or may be protected from the wind, while others may be colder or more protected. It is important to consider how your planting area may differ from other locations around the city. Look for places that will help you take advantage of precious runoff from showers like an area near a draining roof or from a raised bed.

Wind patterns and the formation of wind tunnel effects between structures and planting areas create microclimates. The wind causes more rapid drying, even in the winter, and this will affect the conditions of plants. When you plan a landscape or make new plantings, try to construct your own microclimate that will give you a weather advantage.
    Orchards are frequently planted on the north slope of a hill because it warms more slowly than the south slope. So the trees remain dormant longer reducing the risk of damage by late frosts. Apricots, almonds, and other early flowering plants can be planted on the north side of a house or wall. There, the shadow keeps the ground and plant colder longer, delaying bloom.
    A cold frame or hot bed can lengthen the growing season. In a properly constructed cold frame, you can garden 12 months of the year.
    Build or grow windbreaks to protect your garden. Shade and wind protection reduces water loss, sun-scald, blossom-end rot, and other problems. Design your garden to utilize any existing wall, structure, or hedge to block the prevailing winds.
    New Mexico has a definite surplus of sunlight. Some of the crops you want to grow will do better in up to 33% shade. Plant tall crops such as corn or amaranth (C-4 crops, which need as much light as they can get) to partially shade other crops (C-3 crops, which need only “full sunlight”)
    Use the warmth of a south-facing wall to grow more tender plants, or to coax early bloom from frost-tolerant bulbs and perennials. Large landscape rocks can function the same way for small spring plants. An enclosed courtyard is the ultimate in protected growing conditions.

North, south, east, or west – What’s the difference? For many plants, orientation can mean the difference between surviving cold winters, or not; making a fruit crop, or not; getting through a hot summer beautifully, or not. The best orientation for many plants in Albuquerque is one that gives morning sun and late afternoon shade. This means the east side of a house or other structure, or a large tree or hedge. Plants that need a lot of heat year-round will be happy on a sunny south-facing wall.