Gardening From The Ground Up

 

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8 STEPS TO A SUCCESSFUL GARDEN

A well-planned vegetable garden can provide nutritious, high quality, fresh vegetables for the whole family. A garden 50 5 100 ft will provide enough growing area for an average family. Though a well-maintained vegetable garden can be a lot of work, the outdoor exercise will mean better health for all involved. Eight easy steps will lead to a successful garden.

• Understand climate.
• Plan before you plant.
• Prepare the soil.
• Fertilize for optimum crop production.
• Plant your garden.
• Water properly to improve yields.
• Control pests.
• Harvest at the right time.

UNDERSTAND  CLIMATE

Vegetables that can be grown in the home garden in New Mexico or any other state are generally determined by the length of the growing season. There are three major growing zones in New Mexico (north, central, and south) based on the average number of frost-free days (refer to  Weather Rio Grande,). Crops like okra and watermelons have difficulty maturing in short-season growing areas like Los Alamos. Kale, on the other hand, does not fair well in areas with hot summer weather, such as near Roswell and further south.

Growing periods for individual gardens within a zone may vary as much as 20 days due to micro-environments, variations in elevation, site exposure, soil type, and/or air drainage. Higher elevations generally have a shorter growing season. However, as cold air is heavier than warm air, it can drain into valley areas. Therefore, gardens in a valley in the spring tend to be colder than those on the upper slopes of the valley. Gardens with a southern exposure tend to warm up sooner in the spring than those with a northern exposure.

Gardeners can take advantage of micro-environments to extend the growing season. Planting watermelons near a block wall with a southern exposure increases the average temperature surrounding the melon vines. Heat absorbed by the wall during the day will be radiated back to the atmosphere at night. Painting the wall black will increase that effect. Conversely, planting leaf lettuce on the north side of a house in the shade can help extend its growing season into late spring. Cooler, more humid or shady growing conditions reduce respiration, keeping sugar levels in the plants higher.

Raised beds warm up sooner in the spring than in a level garden. Maximum effect is achieved by planting on the south side of a bed running east to west. Raised beds can be mounded up with a shovel or contained with lumber or bricks.

Soil and ambient temperatures can also be modified using various types of mulches. Organic mulches such as dry bluegrass or fescue clippings (no more than 1-inch deep) keep the soil cooler by shading it from the sun. . However, do not use common Bermuda grass clippings, which may contain seed or stolons (modified stems) that may root  or other plant material that may have seed that could germinate.  Weed-free straw makes an excellent mulch. Organic mulches should be used around cool-season crops like lettuce or spinach.

Clear and black plastic mulches help warm the soil and promote early growth of warm-season crops like tomatoes and melons in the spring. Black plastic is preferred because weeds germinate under clear plastic. However, many gardeners are replacing black plastic with black perforated plastic or landscape fabrics (weed barriers) that allow the soil to breathe and water to penetrate. This must be removed before the weeds root through it making it very difficult to remove. White plastic (non-translucent) and aluminum foil mulches also help cool the soil (aluminum foil also repels aphids).

Jars, bottles, or hot caps can be placed over seed and transplants in the garden during the early spring to speed germination and early growth of both cool- and warm-season vegetables. Unventilated containers will have to be removed during the day when it's hot or the seedlings will be cooked. Plastic sleeves or other containers filled with water that absorb heat during the day can be placed around transplants to protect them from freezing.

Plastic grow-tunnels may be used in larger gardens to protect a whole row of  plants. Some products have vertical slits that permit ventilation during the hot part of the day. Row covers of opaque woven polyester allow air and water to penetrate while warming the soil and plants beneath. Row covers over single-stem plants (such as tomatoes) may have to be supported with wire hoops to keep them from blowing in the wind and damaging plants. Outside edges should be kept in place with soil.

Transplants can be grown in cold frames, hot beds, or greenhouses and later transferred to the garden to get crops off to an early start. As management of these "growth chambers" is quite intense, many gardeners prefer to buy transplants from a local nursery. Season Extenders

PLAN BEFORE YOU PLANT

When selecting the site for your garden, make sure the soil is deep and well-drained. Hard pans (compacted layers of soil) and caliche (layers of calcium carbonate) near the soil surface can become major problems. Raised beds may have to be used if drainage problems cannot be solved.

Most vegetables, whether grown in short or long growing season areas, prefer full sun. Vegetable gardens should be located away from trees that may shade the garden. Tree roots may also compete for water and nutrients. Windbreaks (such as trees, fences, and walls) a safe distance to the southwest of the garden are encouraged to protect young seedlings from prevailing winds in the spring. Fences may be needed to protect crops from rodents, stray pets, or wildlife.

The garden should be easily accessible to water and tools used to work the soil. Aesthetics may dictate that the garden be hidden from public view, especially unsightly compost piles. The size of the garden depends on your family needs, land availability, and water requirements.

The size of the garden also dictates what types of crops you grow. Crops like leaf lettuce, spinach, radishes, and other vegetables that occupy relatively little space are the crops of choice in smaller gardens. Sprawling vine crops like pumpkins or watermelons need substantial space. New "bush" vine crop varieties, however, can be considered for smaller gardens.

Order seed early from a reputable seed company to ensure high quality seed. Never save seed from hybrids planted the year before, as the seed may not produce "true to form" progeny. If possible, order varieties with resistance to diseases that plague your garden. Check with your neighbors, friends, vegetable gardens for recommendations on varieties that have performed well in your area. "All-American" varieties do well in most locations. Try several varieties, taking notes on performance throughout the season. Your notes can be used the following year in making decisions on what varieties to order. Make a list of vegetables you would like to grow. Consider how much space is available, how many people are in your family and their taste preferences, as well as your facilities for canning, freezing, or drying surplus produce.

Before ordering seed in the winter, make a map of your garden to scale to determine placement of crops throughout the growing season. Taller crops like corn should be placed on the north side of the garden where they won't shade shorter crops. Shade-tolerant leafy vegetables can be grown in partial-shade areas. Mapping your garden also helps in crop rotations. Crops with the same insect or disease problems should not follow each other in a crop rotation.

A number of techniques can be used to grow more crops in the same area. Radishes planted in the early spring can be replaced by green beans in the summer. The green beans, in turn, can be replaced by fall-planted garlic. This process of planting three crops one after another in the same growing season is called "succession" planting. Crops like pumpkins will tolerate partial shade and can be planted between sweet corn. This is called "intercropping." The heavy leaf cover from the pumpkins will shade out most weeds under the corn for natural weed control. Highly colored crops like 'Ruby' leaf lettuce or herbs with pretty flowers like chives, sage, or dill can be planted in flower beds for their aesthetic value, creating an edible landscape. Melons and cucumbers can be trained up fences to save room and help prevent fruit rots.

PREPARE THE SOIL

The ideal soil should be deep, well-drained, fertile, contain plenty of organic matter, and retain moisture well. It should also be friable (easily worked) and reasonably free of stones. Soils vary in texture (size of soil particle) from sandy (course particles) to clay (fine particles). Silts fall between sandy and clay textures, while loams are mixtures of all the above. Sandy soils tend to be low in fertility and do not hold water well. Clay soils often drain poorly, crack severely when dry, and become very sticky when wet. Sandy loam soils are ideal for producing most vegetables. Adding organic matter to almost any Southwestern soil will improve its structure. Most soils in New Mexico are low in organic matter.

Adding organic matter to a sandy soil improves both its water-holding capacity and its cation exchange capacity, or the ability of the soil to retain nutrients for plant uptake. Adding organic matter to clay soils aerates these soils and improves their drainage.

One of the easiest ways to add organic matter to your garden soil is to apply livestock manure at a rate of 50-100 lb/100 ft2. Use lighter rates when applying chicken manure, as it tends to be a "hotter" manure (higher in nitrogen) than manure from larger livestock like cattle and horses.

Fresh manure should only be applied in the fall so it has the time to break down in the soil. Heat-treated or composted manures are preferred because fresh manure can introduce weed seed into the garden. Fresh manure applied in the spring often burns young seedlings due to the high salt content of the manure.

Large amounts of organic matter can be added to the soil using "green manure" crops. A green manure crop is any crop grown specifically as a source of forage that can be incorporated back into the soil as a source of organic matter. The most popular green manure crops are winter wheat, barley, oats, and rye. Seed can be obtained from most local farm feed stores and liberally scattered around the garden in late summer or early fall. Rake the seed into the soil around existing vegetables, then water. After first frost, pull up frost-damaged summer vegetables, leaving a "carpet" of green grass to develop in late fall. A little nitrogen fertilizer applied the following spring will speed growth. Approximately one month before planting your garden, the green manure crop should be thoroughly rototilled into the soil. A little extra nitrogen fertilizer will help microorganisms in the soil rapidly break down the organic matter.

Most gardeners find the easiest way to add organic matter to the soil is to apply compost. Compost is often made from leaves, grass clippings, food wastes, and garden vegetable waste from the previous growing season. A 1- to 2-inch layer of well-decomposed compost can be incorporated into the soil before planting. Composting

Most New Mexico soils tend to be alkaline, which makes some soil nutrients like phosphorous, iron, and zinc unavailable for plant uptake. Well-decomposed compost (often called humus) contains humic acid, and when added to alkaline soils, helps to make these nutrients more available for plant uptake.

Compost and manures also contain a wide variety of nutrients. Because the nutrients are in an organic form, they tend to be more stable in the soil and more available for plant uptake over a relatively long time. They do not, however, occur in large quantities, thus most gardeners rely on commercial fertilizers for optimum plant growth.

FERTILIZE FOR OPTIMUM CROP PRODUCTION

Good soil fertility means good crop yields. Good soil fertility is most easily achieved by balancing organic matter with commercial fertilizers. Most commercial fertilizers contain one or more of the three major plant nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. When a fertilizer contains all three elements, it is a "complete" fertilizer. The label on a fertilizer bag indicates the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorous (P2O5), and potassium (K2O) in the fertilizer. A 50-pound fertilizer bag with an analysis of 5-10-10 contains 5 percent nitrogen (2.5 lb), 10 percent phosphorous (5 lb of P2O5), and 10 percent potassium (5 lb of K2O). However, excessive use of commercial fertilizers is reported to be the cause of much of the runoff that is polluting our lakes, rivers and even the ocean and bays surrounding land forms. This is causing dead areas in off shore areas that are killing the natural flora and fauna. Gardeners should be concerned about the environment and keep their use of fertilizers to the minimum that will insure the desired crop.  Much of the runoff is from fertilizing grasses and lawns. (Ed.) Click here: Pollution and Oceans

An "incomplete" fertilizer may contain only one of the nutrients, as in the case of 0-46-0. This incomplete fertilizer is also called a "high analysis" fertilizer, because the amount of phosphorous it contains (46% P2O5) is relatively high compared to the amount in a 5-10-10 fertilizer.

Most New Mexico soils contain sufficient potassium for good vegetable growth, although it's wise to have an analysis of your soil to make sure. Contact your local county Extension agent for information on soil testing .Soil Testing  Nitrogen is important for vegetative growth, particularly in leafy salad crops and corn. A nitrogen deficiency will appear as an overall chlorosis of the older leaves, because any nitrogen moves first to younger leaves. Phosphorous is important for fruit and root growth. Phosphorous deficiency generally appears as a purple coloration of the leaves. It should not be confused with natural, purple coloration in some plants (such as 'Ruby' leaf lettuce) or certain disease symptoms (such as purple tomato leaf veins associated with beet curly top virus).

If no soil test recommendations are available, apply a complete fertilizer that's relatively high in phosphorous (5-10-5) before planting. As phosphorous does not move or leach readily with soil water, it should be broadcast (2.3 lb/100 ft2 of 5-10-5) across the garden and incorporated into the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches. This should provide sufficient nutrients for most root crops. The application rate should be cut back proportionally if a high analysis fertilizer is used.

Leafy vegetables may require supplemental nitrogen later in the season. As nitrogen fertilizers readily dissolve in water, they should be applied several times throughout the season in split applications, usually after thinning, just before flowering, or as needed. Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) can be applied in increments (1/4-1/3 lb/100 ft2) either broadcast (hoed-in) or "banded" 1-2 in. deep to the sides of the plants (4-5 in. from plants) along the edges of the beds. The fertilizer should be covered with soil and watered immediately to prevent the nitrogen (ammonia) from volatizing and escaping into the atmosphere. A side dressing of compost or compost tea will also supply the required nitrogen.

Most other nutrients required for good plant growth can be supplied through natural soil fertility, compost, or manure. However, minor elements like iron may not be readily available for plant uptake in alkaline soils. An iron deficiency will appear as yellowing, or chlorosis, between veins of the younger leaves. Iron is not mobile and does not move from older leaves to younger leaves. Application of an iron chelate to the soil makes the iron more available for plant uptake. An iron chelate or iron sulfate can also be applied to foliage, but the results are often only temporary (do not apply iron sulfate to soil). For best results, follow label instructions on all fertilizers.

PLANT YOUR GARDEN

Plants can be established in the garden either by direct seeding or by transplanting. Planting seeds directly into the soil where they will grow is the easiest and most basic method of starting vegetables in a garden. It is also less costly in terms of both time and money. Transplants are often used in cooler areas where growing seasons are short so vegetables have more time to mature before the first frost.

Before direct seeding, make sure the soil is adequately prepared and well conditioned. Use a garden rake to level the garden and remove stones and other debris. Create a guide for planting seed rows by stretching a string close to the ground between two stakes. The depth of the depression in the soil will depend on the type of seed to be planted. A general rule of thumb is to plant most seed at a depth equivalent to four times the diameter of the seed using twice as many seed as necessary to ensure a good stand. Carefully cover the seeds with soil and firm with the back side of a hoe, making sure the seeds are not covered deeper than recommended. If the soil is heavy and compact when wet or tends to form a crust, a good practice is to sow seed in a small furrow and then cover the seed with vermiculite or sand . Seed cotyledons can emerge easily through the vermiculite or sand.

Keep the seed bed moist until the seeds germinate. Once the plants have developed one or more true leaves, thin the plantlets to the recommended spacing. Crops like beets, lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and onions can be thinned late, using the thinned vegetables in salads. Plants such as carrots which require a long period for germination may be covered with a board to keep the row moist. When the seedlings emerge and are visible the board should be gradually removed by tilting it to one side so the seedlings do not become pale and elongated.

Another technique for direct seeding is the hill method, which works well for vegetables that should be planted deeper in the soil. Squash, melons, cucumbers, corn, and even chile are often planted in hills. Place three to  five seeds in the bottom of a hole, cover with soil and firm with the back of the hoe. Thin to one to three of the most vigorous seedlings after emergence when plants have their first true leaves.

Think of your garden as three gardens in one-a spring garden, summer garden, and fall garden. Planting dates for each will depend on the hardiness of the vegetable and when you want your crop to mature. Hardy cool-season crops can be planted early in the spring or in the summer for a fall crop, while warm-season crops should be planted only after all danger of frost has passed in the spring.

Cool- and warm-season crops may mature earlier if transplants are used. Transplants can be purchased from nurseries and garden centers. Although purchased transplants are more expensive, they are more convenient.

Home gardeners also can start their own transplants either indoors in flats or other containers, or outdoors in cold frames or hotbeds. Start transplants six to eight weeks before you want to be setting them in the garden.

Success in growing your own transplants depends on a number of factors, beginning with a disease-free growing medium. Using a well-balanced, synthetic soil mixture from a local nursery will limit problems from soilborne diseases and weed seed. Soil can be placed in plant trays, flats, or individual pots (plastic or peat). Plants can also be started in individual soil pellets.

Most vegetables germinate well at a daytime temperature of 70¡F (night, 60¡F). At least eight hours of direct sunlight are needed per day. Less light tends to make plants "leggy." Direct sunlight can be supplemented with light from fluorescent tubes (6-8 in. above seedlings). Plants grown in flats or trays can be transferred to individual pots as soon as they can be handled. Leave at least 2 in. between pots for good air circulation.

Whether you use purchased or home-grown transplants, "harden off" the transplants before setting them into the garden. Hardening off is the process of adjusting seedlings to their future outdoor environment. Harden off transplants by setting them outdoors in a semi-protected area (preferably shaded) for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their outdoor exposure a few hours each day. Withhold water gradually but do not allow them to wilt. . Seedlings should be ready to transplant into their permanent locations in a week. If the weather should take a turn for the worst before the seedling can be planted out and it becomes necessary to bring the seedling inside for a few days it will be necessary to repeat the hardening process before the plantlets can be planted outside.

Water plants just before transplanting. This will help keep roots from drying out and will help in the removal of plants from plastic pots (tap on bottom). Transplant in the evening when it's cool if possible. If it is not possible, placing some type of shading device may prevent the seedling being overcome by the bright sunlight or wind. This will give plants time to adjust to their new environment before confronting the sun the next day. The garden soil should be relatively moist when transplanting. Be sure to firm soil over the soil ball and water deeply immediately. If transplants are in peat containers, plant deep enough to cover the top of the pellet, cube, or pot. If the container top is above the soil, it will act as a wick and dry out the plants. Irrigate immediately.

Table 1. When to plant hardy, semi-hardy, and tender vegetables.

WATER PROPERLY TO IMPROVE YIELDS

In New Mexico's dry climate, gardeners must irrigate a garden. However, overwatering can cause root rots or may cause plants to remain overly vegetative rather than producing fruit. Too little water can induce plant stress, reducing both quality and yield.

After planting the garden, irrigate lightly every two to three days until seeds germinate and plants are established. After plant establishment, water less frequently but more deeply (wet soil at least 12 in. deep). Allow the surface soil (the top 1/2-1 in.) to dry out between irrigations, which will promote deeper root growth, eventually making plants more drought tolerant. If the soil is sandy, it may be necessary to water every three to seven days. Watering every 8-12 days may be more appropriate for heavier soils. The watering frequency is also dependent on weather. You will need to water more frequently during hot weather and less when it's cool.

Furrow irrigation is often used in New Mexico. Vegetables can be planted on the outside edge(s) of a raised flat vegetable bed . When irrigating, never allow the water to run over the top of the bed, because this causes a soil crust. Water should be allowed to soak through the bed by capillary action until the water reaches the middle of the bed. This technique concentrates salts in the water and soil into the middle of bed and away from the plants.

Most home gardeners prefer to use sprinklers to irrigate their gardens because they are easy to use. Sprinklers, however, tend to be very inefficient because much of the water can be lost to the atmosphere, especially on windy days. Soil crusting can be a major problem. If you do use sprinkler irrigation, irrigate in the morning to give plants a chance to dry off. Sprinkling in the late afternoon or at night can increase the incidence of foliage diseases like powdery mildew.

Drip irrigation is the most efficient way to water. Drip lines should be placed near the plant so water moves evenly out away from the base of the plant. As with furrow irrigation, this will concentrate salts away from the plant. The garden may have to occasionally be flood irrigated to move accumulated salts down through the soil profile.

 

CONTROL PESTS

Pests are any animal (insects, birds, rodents, children) or plant that interferes with the optimum growing conditions for a specific crop. Weeds compete with vegetables for water, nutrients, and light. Cultivation and mulches are the most efficient ways of controlling weeds in the home garden. Cultivation in small gardens is generally done with a hoe. Be careful not to cultivate too deeply, which could damage crop roots. Mulches help shade the ground, preventing germination of most annual weed seed. Control of weeds with herbicides is discouraged unless you have a very large garden.

The key to controlling insects and diseases in the garden is proper identification. Publications on identification and control of these pests can be found here  Pest  Identification. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label when using any pesticide. Where possible, plant resistant varieties and use good cultural techniques to control these pests.

Asparagus, a member of the lily family, is winter hardy and fairly tolerant of heat, drought, and salinity. It grows wild along ditch banks in New Mexico, but produces its finest shoots (spears) in a well-fertilized, rich soil. Once established, a well-maintained bed will produce for 10-15 years.

Asparagus is generally established from 1-year-old crowns spaced 12-18 in. apart in a trench 8 in. deep (the bottom of the trench should be a mixture of soil and compost). Cover crowns with a 2-in. layer of soil and compost. Allow spears to form ferns the first growing season. As ferns develop, backfill with soil and compost until a raised bed of ferns and enriched soil is formed.

The following spring, spears can be harvested (4-8 week period) with a knife, or snap them off at the soil surface. Cease harvesting when the average spear diameter is less than 1/4 inch. Allow ferns to develop to replace carbohydrates in the root system for next spring's crop. Fertilize ferns with nitrogen fertilizer after harvest to promote good growth. Remove ferns during the winter and topdress with weed-free manure.

Older varieties of asparagus (such as 'Mary Washington') produce both male and female plants. New all-male hybrids (such as 'Jersey Giant') produce greater yields because they don't form seed pods, so more energy is diverted to spear production. New all-male hybrids also tend to have more tolerance to diseases such as fusarium wilt.
Rhubarb does well in cooler areas of New Mexico, but has not proved successful in lower, warmer areas of the state (try afternoon shade to cool plants). Native to southern Siberia, rhubarb will grow to a height of 4 ft with large basal leaves and edible leafstalks (petioles) 15-30 in. long. Leaf blades contain oxalic acid and are poisonous.

Propagate using crown divisions purchased from a local nursery or catalog in the spring. Cut crowns into small sections with one good eye per section. Plant sections 3 ft apart in a trench 2-3 in. deep (reinforced with compost below the trench), and cover with soil. Do not allow "seed pieces" to dry out.

Do not harvest the first year after establishment. This allows carbohydrates to build up in the roots. Harvest only the largest and best leaf stalks in late spring during the following growing seasons. Stalks separate readily from the crown when grasped near the base of the stalk and slightly pulled. Remove any seedstalks that form to maintain plant vigor. Petioles or stalks may be either red (in varieties such as 'Valentine') or green ('Victoria').
 

Table 2. The " Pick Prime Produce" chart.