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Tomatoes 2008
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Much of the information on vegetables also can be used for herb gardening. Some information, however, will be specific to either vegetables or herbs, and this information is handled under headings indicating vegetables or herbs. When planning your garden, it is important to ask a few basic questions: Who will be doing the work? Will the garden be a group project with family members or friends who will willingly work through the season, or will you be handling the hoe alone, in between camping and swimming? Remember, a small weed-free garden will produce more than a large, weedy, messy one. What do you and your family like to eat? Although pictures in a garden catalog may look delicious, there is no value in taking up gardening space with vegetables that no one eats. Make a list of your family’s favorite vegetables ranked in order of preference. This can be a useful guide in deciding how much of each crop to plant. Successive plantings of certain crops, such as beans, will give a longer harvest period and increase your yield. How do you plan to use the produce from your garden? Do you plan to can, freeze, dry or store part of the produce? Answering these questions will help you not only in planning the size of the garden but also in selecting the varieties to be grown. Some varieties have much better keeping quality than others. Choose varieties carefully, making sure they are adapted to your area and intended use. How much space is available? You should consider how much area can be converted into usable garden space, not simply how much empty ground is available.
Locating the Garden Vegetables grow best in a level area with loose, well-drained soil that receives at least 8 hours of sunlight each day.
Soil Preparation The ideal vegetable garden soil is deep, friable, well-drained and rich in organic matter. Proper soil preparation provides the basis for good seed germination and subsequent growth of garden crops. Careful use of various soil amendments can improve garden soil. Soil Testing Check soil fertility and pH by having your soil analyzed at least once every 3 years. Soil pH measures the degree of acidity or alkalinity of the soil. Vegetables vary to some extent in their requirements, but most garden crops will do well with a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.5. If soil pH is too high or too low, poor crop growth will result largely due to the effects of pH on the availability of nutrients to plants. A soil test will also give you a relative idea of the nutrient level in the soil. Soil sample kits are available from your local county Extension office. The Extension Service will mail results to you with recommendations for correcting any deficiencies or other problems that may exist. Private companies also do soil testing; in many cases, they give detailed reports and recommendations, but they may be more expensive. For best results, carefully follow the instructions for soil testing. Make basic nutrient and pH adjustments to the soil by adding required fertilizers and/or alkalizers or acidifiers. In new garden spots, remove sod with a spade and use it to patch your lawn or put it in a compost pile to decay. Plow, spade or till the soil. Work only when soil moisture conditions are right. To test moisture, pick up a handful of soil and squeeze; if it stays in a mud-ball, it is too wet. If it crumbles freely, it is about right. Excessively dry soil is powdery and clumpy and may be difficult to work. Take samples at the surface and at depths of 4 to 6 inches in several locations in the garden plot. If soil sticks to a shovel or if the turned surface is shiny and smooth, it is still too wet. Working excessively wet soils can destroy soil structure, which may take years to rebuild. Plowing with a tractor when the soil is wet is especially damaging because it causes the formation of a compaction layer that will inhibit root growth. Soils with adequate humus levels generally allow more leeway because of their improved structural qualities. Before planting, break up large clods of soil and level the bed with a rake. Small-seeded vegetables germinate best in smooth, fine-surfaced soil. Do not pulverize the seedbed soil because it destroys the structure and promotes crusting and erosion problems. Equipment Equipment used in preparing a garden depends on garden size, your physical ability, time, budget and availability. Options include digging with a spade or shovel, tilling with a power rotary tiller or using a small garden tractor or a full-sized farm tractor. Tilling the Soil It was once assumed that gardens should be turned yearly with a moldboard plow for weed and pest control. While garden plowing is still a common practice, completely turning the soil over has been found to be detrimental in some cases. It can cause soil compaction, upset the balance of microorganisms and often results in layers of coarse organic material being buried below the influence of insects and microbes that would otherwise decompose the material. Chisel plowing is one alternative. It does not have this disruptive effect; however, it is limited to sandy or loamy soils. Many gardeners do not have chisel plows, and gardeners in less-than-rural areas may have trouble finding a farmer who will plow and disk their garden for a reasonable price. Tilling most home gardens is sufficient as long as plant debris accumulation is not allowed to get out of hand. Rotary tilling produces the best results because the upper soil layers are mixed rather than completely turned over. One possible disadvantage associated with tilling is the formation of a compaction layer just below the reach of the tines. This occurs at a deeper level if a moldboard plow is used to the same depth every year. Use of deep-rooted cover crops or double-digging can do much to prevent or alleviate this problem if it exists. Small gardens can be designed using raised beds that may be worked entirely by hand. Soil Amendments Any addition to the soil that improves its physical or chemical condition is considered a soil amendment. Many types of amendments are available to the home gardener. Sulfur and gypsum are common soil amendments. Dolomitic limestone adds calcium and magnesium as it increases alkalinity. Gypsum adds calcium and some sulfur. Sulfur is used to acidify alkaline soil. Other amendments are specifically added to improve soil nutrient levels. Nutritional amendments that can be purchased include mushroom compost, cottonseed meal, kelp meal, leather meal and worm castings, as well as many synthetic fertilizers. Organic amendments are particularly useful when a trace element deficiency exists. However, synthetic fertilizers are generally more available, less expensive and yield quicker but shorter lasting results. In special cases, coarse sand, pumice, vermiculite and perlite are sometimes added to heavy clays to help improve soil texture or structure. However, these inert materials can be expensive and large quantities are needed to be effective. Compost, manures and other amendments are usually more economical and are just as effective. Organic matter is an excellent soil improver for both clay and sandy soils. Good sources of organic matter include manure, leaf mold, sawdust, straw and other materials that are decomposed in the soil by soil organisms. Various factors, such as moisture, temperature and nitrogen availability, determine the rate of decomposition through their effects on these organisms. Adequate water must be present. Warm temperatures increase the rate at which the microbes work. The proper balance of carbon and nitrogen in the material is needed to ensure adequate nutrient availability both to growing plants and decomposing organisms. It may be necessary to add nitrogen if large amounts of undecomposed leaves, straw, sawdust or other high-carbon substances are used. Nitrogen is used by the decayers to make proteins for their bodies. If nitrogen is not present in sufficient amounts, the microbes will steal it from plants. Generally, fresh green wastes, such as grass clippings, are higher in nitrogen than dry materials. The use of compost will avoid decomposition problems. Compost is usually made by the gardener from plant wastes. Correct composting is an art; it can be a valuable source of nutrients and humus for any garden. The basis of the process is the microbial decomposition of mixed raw organic materials, creating a dark, fluffy product resembling rich soil, which is spread and worked into garden soil. Animal manures are frequently used as garden soil amendments; however, different manures contain different nutrients. For example, fresh horse, sheep, rabbit and poultry manures are quite high in nitrogen and may even burn plants if applied directly to a growing garden. They are best applied in the fall and tilled under. Manures usually have less nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium than synthetic fertilizers but are valuable soil builders. Unfortunately, manure may contain weed seeds. If this is a problem, composting in a hot pile may help. In urban areas, manure may not be as plentiful as it is in rural areas. Cover crops, also referred to as green manures, are another source of inexpensive soil improvement. Cover crops, such as annual rye, ryegrass and oats, are planted in the fall and incorporated into the garden in the spring. For best results, sow seed a month before the first killing frost. In a fall garden, plant cover crops between the rows and in any cleared areas. Cover cropping provides additional organic matter, holds nutrients that might have been lost over winter, and helps reduce erosion and topsoil loss. Legume cover crops can increase the amount of nitrogen in the soil and reduce fertilizer needs. A deep-rooted cover crop allowed to grow for a season in problem soil can help break up hardpan and greatly improve tilth. Incorporate green manures at least 2 weeks before planting vegetables; they should not be allowed to go to seed. The regular addition of manures, compost, cover crops and other organic materials can improve soil condition so the use of synthetic fertilizers may be reduced or even eliminated. This comes about not only through the intrinsic fertilization value of the amendment, but also through the increased action of microorganisms on soil and humus particles. Humic acid (and other acids) helps release previously locked-up nutrients that are naturally present in the soil. The extra surface area provided by humus serves as a reserve, holding nutrient elements until they are needed by plants. This highly desirable soil quality does not occur with a single or even several additions of organic material, but instead it is the result of a serious soil-building program. Information on this subject is widely available in books and magazine articles. Remember, soil is alive and constantly changing. By keeping it rich and fertile, many gardening problems may be diminished. Soil is the base for plant growth; considerable attention should be paid to it to get and keep it in the best condition. Selecting Gardening Equipment Garden catalogs and stores are full of gardening tools. Many are highly specialized, some are very useful, others are nice but not necessary and some are gimmicks. The gardening equipment you need depends on the size of your garden, your age and strength and whether you want to get the job done in a hurry or prefer to take your time. The minimum equipment needed by most gardeners includes a shovel or spade, a hoe, a rake and a trowel. A wide selection of tool styles is available; choices depend on personal preference and price range. You can get the best value for your price range by considering how the tool is to be used and by knowing what qualities to look for when comparison shopping. Hand Tools There are several different types of hand tools for cultivating. A garden shovel with a pointed blade is lighter and smaller than most other shovels and is well suited for moving soil in the garden. A shovel has a dish-shaped blade mounted to the handle at an angle, while a spade has a flat blade and is designed for cutting rather than lifting or moving soil. Spades are excellent for shaping straight-sided trenches and for edging beds. For general purpose digging, lifting and moving, a long-handled shovel is ideal. Shovels and spades come with long or short handles in standard or D-shaped styles. Choice of handle style depends on personal preference; long handles offer greater leverage and are less tiring to use in many cases. Short handles are often thicker and stronger than long ones. A spading fork is another useful digging tool. It is ideal for breaking and turning heavy soils and for loosening subsoil layers when double-digging a bed. Turning coarse compost, digging root crops and spreading mulches are other jobs suitable for a spading fork. A hoe is essential in any garden for preparing the seed bed, removing weeds and breaking up crusted soil. Several different hoe styles are available. The pointed hoe with a heart-shaped blade is lightweight and useful for opening seed furrows and cultivating between plants. The hula or action hoe is a type of scuffle hoe that is very lightweight and maneuverable. Pushing and pulling it just under the soil surface eliminates newly emerging weeds and breaks up any crust on the soil surface. This type of hoe is most easily used on soil that is not compacted since the blade is relatively thin and lacks the clod-breaking capabilities of a heavier hoe. It is also less effective in cases where weeds have gotten a good start. Other types of scuffle hoes are somewhat more sturdy and are used with a pushing motion rather than pushing and pulling motions. The most commonly used hoe is probably the square-bladed hoe, which lends itself well to many garden tasks. A sturdy rake is useful to clear the garden of rocks and debris, spread mulches and smooth seedbeds. Correct rake size depends on how it is going to be used; your size and strength also should be considered. As the number of tines increases, rake weight also increases. Avoid choosing a rake so heavy that you tire after a short period of raking. The length of the rake handle is also important. When standing upright, the tip of the handle should reach your ear. A handle that is too short will make your work harder, causing unnecessary bending and back strain. A trowel will be in constant use for those many digging jobs that do not call for full-sized tools, especially in the spring. The trowel is perfect for transplanting seedlings and bulbs or for digging shallow-rooted weeds. Small hand cultivators, often sold in sets with trowels, are useful for weeding between closely-spaced plants and in other small areas. Another useful small digging tool is appropriately named a digger, but it also may be referred to as a weeder, cultivator or asparagus knife. This tool is available from most hardware or discount stores for a few dollars. It is indispensable for digging up weeds with long taproots, such as dandelions, or for prying out Johnsongrass rhizomes. It has a long (10 to 14 inch), solid metal rod with a two-pronged blade opposite the handle. This tool is practically indestructible and is well worth its price. Some other tools that may have a place in the garden tool shed include the pickaxe, mattock and wheel cultivator. Pickaxes are used to break up extremely hard-packed or stony soil. Mattocks are used for the same purpose but are equipped with a cutting blade for areas where larger roots need to be removed. A mattock may also be used to chop up debris for composting. A wheel cultivator has a number of attachments for soil preparation and weed control and may be a good investment for use in larger gardens. Power Tools The power rotary tiller is probably the most common power tool purchased by gardeners. Whether or not a gardener needs a tiller depends on garden size, the gardener’s capabilities and the intended uses of the tiller. Tiller selection may be based on the nature of work to be done, quality of the machine and ease of repair, as well as personal preference. The tiller’s engine powers rotating blades or tines that can make garden soil loose, fluffy and ready for planting. It can also chop plant debris and mix it into the soil. Incorporating organic matter and manure into garden soil is easily accomplished with a tiller, thus reducing the tendency to procrastinate. The ability of the tiller to do these jobs effectively is a function of its weight, strength, design, type of tines and type of soil. A heavy, powerful tiller is most effective on stony clay soils. In a small garden or one with light soil, a smaller tiller is more appropriate. Very lightweight tillers, known as soil blenders, are designed mainly for raised bed gardening; however, they are not widely available. Both front- and rear-mounted tine tillers are available. Rear-tined tillers are able to self-propel on all but the rockiest soils more easily. They travel in a straight line and can produce a footprint-free seedbed. Rear-tined tillers often have a number of attachments available for a variety of uses, such as hilling potatoes, making raised beds and even plowing snow. In most cases, the price of a rear-tined tiller is considerably higher than a front-tined tiller. So consideration should be given to the payback time necessary for such a large investment. If gardening is simply a hobby or if the garden is small, a front-tined tiller may be more appropriate. Front-tined tillers are usually lightweight but may require considerable strength to guide them through the soil. Leverage is necessary for adequate control; operating this type of tiller is comparable to handling a large floor polisher similar to those used in schools and hospitals. New gardeners are sometimes scared away from these tillers because of the initial experience of having a tiller run away from them. The front-tined tiller may not make as straight a pass as the heavier rear-tined type, but it is much easier to turn. Due to this increased maneuverability, the front-tined tiller is easy to use in small gardens and in corner areas. The purchase of a power tiller is a major investment. Some features to consider include heavy cast iron, steel plate and tubing, heavy bearings, strong welds used in construction and controls that are easy to operate. Ask to see the operator’s manual and try to determine how difficult it is to do a tune-up. You may save yourself a great deal of trouble and money if you can replace plugs and points yourself. This is particularly true if you do not have a pickup truck to haul the tiller. Also consider the locations of service centers and parts dealers. Careful attention to your needs, abilities and price range is important. Talk to people who have the type of tiller you are interested in purchasing. If possible, borrow or rent different machines and send for information before buying. If you are considering the purchase of a used tiller, plan to do so well ahead of time so that you will not be rushed into a purchase. If you do not know much about such equipment, it may be helpful to have a mechanically-minded friend look over the machine you are considering. Above all, test each tiller for ease of starting and operation. An engine that smokes or runs roughly may need a lot of work. Tines should operate smoothly and freely. Check the welds in the handles to see that they are strong; any sign of re-welding may mean that the handles were broken at one time, which is a common problem in older tillers. Look at the dipstick if there is one; low oil or very sludgy oil may mean that the tiller has been poorly maintained. Check oil and other fluids by opening the drain plugs. Look for excessive dirt around the engine or in the air filter. This may also indicate poor maintenance habits. Ask the owner for an operator’s manual and ask where the machine has been serviced in the past. A good tiller is a long-term investment, so plan carefully before you buy. Other Power Tools There are few other power tools needed in a vegetable garden. Cordless tools come with various cultivating attachments; most are rechargeable and can make garden chores more pleasurable. These tools are especially useful for persons with physical disabilities that may limit strength. A garden shredder is practical in large gardens with abundant plant wastes. Hand-operated shredders are slow but effective if wastes are small in quantity and not too coarse. Gasoline shredders are quite expensive and may be a disappointment to the gardener who wants to chip branches and other large materials. They are best used for shredding leaves, small branches and other plant wastes (sunflower stalks would probably be too bulky). On the other hand, a chipper will chip large branches and other coarse material, but the cost of $1,000 or more makes the chipper uneconomical for most home gardeners. Seeding and Planting Tools Depending on the size of your garden and your physical abilities, you may want to consider a row seeder. Seeders with wheels make easy work of sowing long rows of corn, beans or other vegetables. Seeders that make a furrow, properly space the seeds and close the furrow behind the seed all in one pass are available. They do not perform quite as well on small-seeded crops, and it is not worth the effort of setting up a seeder for small areas. A hand-held seeder is probably a better choice for this type of work. Broadcast seeders are available for sowing seeds such as rye or wheat for a cover crop, but these are not necessary for the average home gardener since broadcasting is easily done by hand once the proper technique is learned. Carts/Wheelbarrows A wheelbarrow or cart is very useful in and around the garden area. It should be easy to handle when full and have good maneuverability. Durable construction is well worth the price for a long, useful life. Choose a cart or wheelbarrow that is appropriate for your physical abilities and garden needs. A wheelbarrow generally requires more strength and control than most garden carts. Many of the small carts are made of relatively flimsy metal, and though inexpensive, they may not be very durable or suitable for heavy items such as rocks. If you plan to haul only lightweight straw, leaves, sawdust and so forth, a small cart may be suitable. For heavier jobs, you may need a wheelbarrow. Investigate some of the newer garden carts, especially those with bicycle-sized tires, which make easy work of hauling. These are made of heavy plywood and metal but are well-balanced and easy to maneuver. However, they may cost as much as several hundred dollars and require a large storage space. Therefore, they may be practical only for serious gardeners or for those with other uses for such a cart. One alternative is to build your own cart from one of several plans available from gardening magazines or private companies. Watering Equipment An adequate water supply makes a big difference in garden yields. Purchase of watering equipment depends upon available facilities, water supply, climate and garden practices. If there is no outdoor faucet near the garden, the expense of having one installed may be greater than the benefits gained except in very drought-prone areas or in the case of a gardener who is fully dependent on the season’s produce. Where rainfall is adequate, it is wise to keep watering equipment simple; a rain barrel or a garden hose with a fan-type sprinkler will suffice. A water breaker for small seedlings is a nice extra. In areas where there are extended periods of hot weather without precipitation, the local water supply is likely to be inadequate. Overhead sprinklers waste water; so a drip irrigation system may be in order. Drip irrigation puts water right at the roots and does not wet plant leaves, helping to avoid disease. Timers that allow automatic watering with drip and some other systems are available. However, this type of system is relatively expensive and may be considered a nuisance by some gardeners because of maintenance and placement requirements. Determine whether cultural practices, such as mulching, close plant spacing, shading or wide bed planting will meet most of your extra water needs; then purchase watering equipment accordingly. Soil Testing Equipment For most gardening purposes, soil testing does not have to be done more than once a year. Some gardeners like to monitor soil quality frequently, thus making a soil testing kit a worthwhile purchase. An electronic pH tester is on the market for those who prefer more high-tech equipment. Enviromental Monitoring Equipment Serious gardeners often invest in various types of equipment that allow them to monitor the microclimate around the garden or indoors. A rain gauge is an inexpensive device that helps the gardener determine if enough rain has fallen for garden plants. A maximum-minimum thermometer is a useful device to measure nightly low and daytime high temperatures especially in a greenhouse. Soil thermometers measure soil temperature as well as the internal temperature of a compost pile. Light and watering meters can be purchased for indoor plant monitoring. Trellises/Cages Trellises and cages for vining plants save space and keep fruits off the ground, reducing damage to plants and the amount of stooping required for harvest. Look for heavy-duty materials and a sturdy design that will stand up to rain, wind and drying. Wire should be heavy gauge and wood should be treated with non-phytotoxic materials (not toxic to plants). Metal parts should be rustproof or at least rust-resistant. If you build your own trellis or cage, you will probably save a considerable amount of money and get better quality for the price. Harvesting and Food Preparation Equipment Harvesting equipment varies depending on the size and type of garden, whether or not food is to be stored and the way in which it is to be processed. Baskets are useful to most gardeners and can be purchased at garden or farm supply stores or salvaged from local grocery stores or fruit stands. Berry baskets for small fruits, baskets with handles for carrying vegetables and peck or bushel baskets for storage are all useful. Fruit pickers are nice and easy to use for tall fruit trees. A sharp knife for cutting vegetables off plants is handy and helps prevent plant damage. Food processing equipment includes canners, blanchers, dehydrators and sealers for frozen food packages. There is even a very expensive home vacuum-packer available. A food mill is inexpensive and very useful for making sauces and juices; a blender or food processor is also useful to the gardener with extra food. More specialized tools include corn cutters, which remove kernels from the cob, bean Frenchers and shellers, cherry pitters, strawberry cappers, apple corers and peelers, jelly strainers, and thermometers. A large kettle or pot is indispensable for preparing food prior to canning. A jar lifter prevents burned fingers, and a funnel to transfer food to jars reduces messiness. Choices depend on individual needs and preferences. Keep tools clean and sharp as it increases its usefulness and lengthens its life. Learn the techniques of sharpening each tool and practice frequently. Professional gardeners often carry sharpening stones or files while working and sharpen their tools after every hour or so of use. It is important to clean your tools after each use. One effective method is to keep a 5-gallon bucket filled with sand and used motor oil in the tool shed. At the end of the gardening day, remove clinging dirt from tools by plunging them into the oily sand several times. This keeps the tools cleaned, oiled and helps prevent rusting. The last and perhaps most important step in tool care is to put tools in their proper places. Tools left in the garden will rust and break and can be a safety hazard. Some gardeners paint the handles with a bright color to make them easy to spot. If each tool has its own place in the storage area, it is simple to determine if tools are missing before closing for the day. Before winter sets in, sharpen tools, coat metal parts lightly with oil and rub wooden handles with linseed oil. Drain gasoline from power tools and obtain filters, mufflers and tune-up parts so that a fall or late-winter tune-up will leave the machine ready for early spring. Have necessary maintenance done in winter when demand is lowest, and you can afford to let the repairer take his or her time. In fall, any trellises or cages that have been outdoors should be cleaned and stored inside if possible. Traps and other pest control devices should also be stored if the pest season is over. Coldframes and other season extenders should be protected from damage by ice and snow or high winds, and once their job is done should be repaired if necessary and put away if possible. Tools with wheels, like cultivators, seeders and carts, should be oiled and stored. When thoughtfully selected and maintained, your tools will give many years of service. This extra help in the garden will pay for itself in time. Seed for the Garden Choosing and purchasing vegetable seeds is one of the most enjoyable gardening pastimes. Thumbing through colorful catalogs and dreaming of the season’s harvest is one way to make winter seem a little warmer. Seed purchased from a dependable seed company provides a good start toward realizing that vision of bounty. Keep notes about the seeds you purchase — their germination qualities, plant vigor, tendencies toward insects and disease, etc. From this information, you can determine whether a seed company is meeting your needs or whether the varieties you have chosen are unsuitable for your area or gardening style. For example, if powdery mildew is a big problem on plants in your area, next year you may want to look for mildew-resistant varieties. Saving Seed Saving your own vegetable seed is another pleasurable activity. It offers a sense of self-sufficiency and saves money. You can maintain a variety that is not commercially available, thus helping to perpetuate a broad genetic base of plant varieties. Breeders often search for old-time varieties when attempting to improve commercial plants since the heirloom vegetables (as they are sometimes called) often have inbred disease and pest resistance or cold-hardiness. Participation in a seed-saver’s exchange can be a rewarding experience. Your extra seeds may be traded for unusual types that are not available through other sources. There are certain considerations to keep in mind when saving seed. Hybrid varieties are not likely to be the same as the parent plants; therefore, only open-pollinated varieties should be used for home seed production. Some seed dealers have responded to the increasing interest in seed-saving by clearly marking open-pollinated varieties in their catalogs. Another concern in saving seed is the possibility of carrying seed-borne diseases into next year’s crop. Many commercially-grown seeds are grown in dry areas unsuitable to fungal, viral and bacterial diseases that may be present in your region. Take care to control diseases that can be carried in seed. Another weather-related factor is how long it takes seeds to dry; this can be adversely affected by frequent rain and/or high humidity. Finally, if you have ever saved squash seed during a season in which you had more than one type of squash planted, you have probably seen the strange effects of cross-pollination. Saving seeds from cross-pollinated crops is not generally recommended for the novice because of problems with selection, requirements for hand pollination and isolation, biennial habits and genetic variability. Some common, self-pollinated, annual plants from which seed may be saved include lettuce, okra, beans and peas, herbs and tomatoes. Methods for savings these seeds are described below. Beans, peas and okra. Allow the seed pods to turn brown on the plant. Harvest the pods and dry them for 1 to 2 weeks. Shell and store them in a paper bag in a dry, cool (below 50° F) environment. Lettuce seed. Cut seed stalks when fluffy in appearance, just before all the seeds are completely dried. Seeds will fall off the stalk and be lost if allowed to mature on the plant. Completely dry the harvested seed stalk. Shake the seeds off and store in a cool, dry environment in an envelope or small glass jar. Herb seeds. Herbs vary in methods of seed production. In general, allow herb seeds to almost completely dry on the plants. Some seed heads, such as dill, shatter and drop their seeds as soon as they are dry. Watch the early-ripening seeds; if they tend to fall off, harvest the other seed heads before they reach that point, leaving several inches of stem attached. Hang several stems upside down, covered with a paper bag to catch falling seed, in a warm, dry place until the drying is complete. Remove seeds from the seed heads and store them in envelopes or small glass jars. Some herb seeds, such as dill, celery, anise, cumin and others, can be used for flavoring as soon as they dry. Tomato seeds. Pick ripe fruit from desirable plants. Cut the fruit and squeeze the pulp into a container. Add a little water and then let this ferment for 2 to 4 days at room temperature, stirring occasionally. When the seeds settle out, pour off the pulp and spread the seeds thinly to dry thoroughly. Store in an envelope or glass jar in a cool dry place. For all kinds of saved seeds, be sure to clearly mark the storage containers with permanent, preferably waterproof ink indicating the variety and date saved. If properly stored, seeds will remain viable for some time (Table 6.2). To test germination, sprout seeds between moist paper towels; if germination is low, either discard the seed or plant extra to yield the desirable number of plants. Depth for Planting Vegetable Seeds The depth to cover seeds when you plant them depends on a number of factors, including seed size, soil type and season of the year. As a general rule, vegetable and flower seeds should be covered about two to three times their lateral diameter or width (not their length); however, there are exceptions. You should always read packet directions. Some seeds require light for germination and should not be covered at all. These instructions apply to seeds planted both indoors and outdoors. Starting Seed Indoors To start seed indoors, it is important to have enough light. This factor probably accounts for the loss of more homegrown seedlings than any other. Vegetable seedlings grown under low-light conditions are likely to be leggy and weak, and many will fall over under their own weight after they are 3 to 4 inches tall. If you do not have a sunny room or back porch with a southern exposure, you will probably need supplemental lighting. A simple fluorescent light with grow lights or with one warm-white and one cool-white bulb will suffice. It is advisable to use a soilless or peat-lite mix to start seedlings since garden soil contains disease organisms which can be highly destructive to small plants. Soil can be sterilized in the oven by baking it at 200°F until the internal soil temperature reaches 180°F for at least 30 minutes. This is a smelly process, but it works. Garden soil that is high in clay should be conditioned with compost or perlite to prevent excess moisture or shrinkage. You can make your own peat-lite mix if you prefer; 50 percent vermiculite or perlite and 50 percent fine sphagnum peat is an excellent mix for starting seeds. Half the normal strength of fertilizer may be added, and all the ingredients should be thoroughly mixed. Many types of containers can be used to start seeds. Flats or other large containers may be planted in rows, and the seedlings grown until they have one or two sets of true leaves. At this point, they are transplanted into other containers until they reach the right size for transplanting outdoors. Seedlings also can be started in pots, old cans, cutoff milk cartons, margarine tubs, egg cartons or other throwaways. The pop-out trays found at garden centers are both easy to use and reusable. Regardless of the type of container chosen, fill it three-quarters full with seed-starting mixture and sow the seeds. Cover to the specified depth and water. If your home is dry, it may help to cover the containers with plastic wrap to maintain a constant moisture level. Although seeds and seedlings are extremely sensitive to drying out, they should not be kept soaking wet. This is conducive to damping-off, a fungal disease deadly to seedlings. Damping-off can be prevented or diminished by sprinkling milled sphagnum moss, which contains a natural fungicide, on top of the soil. Another option is to use peat pellets or cubes which are preformed and require no additional soil mix. The pellets or cubes are soaked until thoroughly wet; then seeds are planted in preformed holes. The whole pellet or cube can be planted without disturbing the roots. The only disadvantage to this method is expense. Starting Seed Outdoors Many seeds can be directly sown into the garden. Young seedlings can emerge quite easily from sandy or organic soil. Seeds can be planted more deeply if garden soil is very sandy or if it is mellow with a high organic matter content. If garden soil is heavy with a high silt or clay content, the seeds should be covered only 2 to 3 times their diameter. In such soils it may be helpful to apply a band of sand, fine compost or vermiculite 4-inches wide and ¼-inch thick above the row after the seeds are planted. This helps retain soil moisture and reduces crusting, making it easier for seedlings to push through the soil surface. Soil temperature affects the speed of seed germination. In spring, soil is often cold and seeds of some plants will rot before they have a chance to sprout. When planting a fall garden in midsummer, soil will be warm and dry. Cover the seeds to 4 to 5 times their diameter. To promote germination, gently water each day with a sprinkler or a sprinkling can. Retain moisture with shallow mulch or by covering the row with a board until the seeds have sprouted. Shading the area may keep the soil cooler for seed germination, especially when planting cool-weather crops in summer. Seed requiring a lower germination temperature may benefit from pre-sprouting indoors or from storage in the refrigerator 2 weeks before planting. Presprouting is also a useful technique for planting in cold soils; however, seed must be handled very carefully once sprouted to prevent damaging new root tissue. Row Planting A string stretched between stakes provides a guide for neat, straight rows. Use a hoe handle, a special furrow hoe or a grub hoe to make a furrow of the appropriate depth for the seed being planted. Sow seed thinly; it may help to mix very small seed with coarse sand to distribute the seeds more evenly. Draw soil over the seed, removing stones and large clods. Firming soil over seeds improves soil moisture uptake and hastens germination. Water the seeds to improve soil and seed contact. When the plants have reached 4 to 6 inches in height, thin according to seed packet instructions to provide adequate room for growth. Broadcast Planting Many crops may be sown in wide, banded rows or beds instead of long, single rows. Crops such as spinach, peas, beets, lettuce, green onions and carrots are especially suited to this type of culture. Seed should be sown evenly over the area, then raked in with a rake or three-pronged hand cultivator. Firm soil over the seeds; then thin young plants to allow room for growth. Hill Planting Larger vegetables, such as melons, squash, corn and cucumbers, can be planted in hills. Soil is mounded to a foot or so in diameter at the recommended spacing (Figure 6.3). Plant four to six seeds per hill, firming the soil well. Thin the seedlings to three to five plants per hill. Transplants for the Garden Most gardeners use transplants in the garden at one time or another to give long-season plants a chance to grow to maturity under preferred weather conditions or just to lengthen the harvest season. Cool-season crops, such as head lettuce, broccoli, celery and others, would not have a chance to reach their prime harvest stage in most areas of New Mexico in spring if not given those extra weeks indoors to get a head start. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants might not produce at all if not grown from transplants. Due to the amount of time, attention and the need for controlled growing conditions, many gardeners prefer to purchase plants for their gardens. However, for a larger selection of varieties and to control plant production from seed to harvest, others gardeners choose to start their own. Annual Plants Transplants of annual vegetables and flowers should have good roots and should be stocky, healthy and free from disease. They should not be too small or too mature. Be sure plants have been hardened-off so that they easily adapt to environmental change. However, they should not be so hardened-off that they are woody or yellow. Successful transplanting is achieved by interrupting plant growth as little as possible. This is the advantage of using peat pots or peat pellets which are not removed when transplanting. Have the garden soil prepared before transplanting. All additives which require time to break down, such as manures, limestone, rock fertilizers and green manures, should be incorporated several weeks before planting. Fertilizers and well-decayed compost can be added just before planting. Transplant on a shady day in late afternoon or early evening to prevent wilting. It helps to water the plants several hours before transplanting. When using bare-root plants, such as sweet potato slips or plants from a farm supply store, thoroughly soak the roots for an hour or two before setting them out in the garden. The roots should not be allowed to completely dry out. Handle plants carefully; avoid disturbing the roots or bruising the stems. Dig a hole large enough to hold the plant’s roots. Set the plants slightly deeper than previously planted and at recommended intervals. Tomatoes are an exception to the planting depth rule; they will develop roots all along the stems so that you can plant them deeply enough to leave only 2 or 3 sets of leaves exposed. Press the soil firmly around the roots of transplants. Pour about 1 cup of starter solution in the hole around the plant. For a few days after transplanting, protect the plants from wind and sun by placing newspaper or cardboard on their south sides or by covering them with jugs, baskets or flower pots. Water the plants once or twice during the next week if depending on the amount of rainfall. Perennial Plants When buying small fruit plants or perennial crowns such as asparagus, order early or buy from reliable local outlets. Discount department stores often allow plants to dry out; watch for this especially if you are buying sale plants. Select varieties that will do well under your growing conditions. For perennial plants, it pays to find out about the major disease and insect pests and to buy resistant varieties. Dormant bare-root plants and 1- or 2-year-old crowns are preferred. Look for roots that are full, slightly moist and have color. Roots that are dry brown or soggy black indicate poor storage and will probably not give good results. Check crowns for signs of viable buds and inspect plants for signs of insects or disease. If you receive plants by mail which are unsatisfactory, do not hesitate to write the dealer. Once you have the plants, keep roots moist (but not soaking wet) by occasionally misting them. Do not allow them to freeze or to be exposed to high temperatures. If it is necessary to keep the crowns for more than a few days, either place them in cold storage (not freezing) or heel them in a trench of moist soil in a shaded location. Pack soil firmly against roots to eliminate any air pockets. Transplant crowns according to directions, digging holes large enough to give the roots plenty of room to spread. Remove any discolored or dried-out roots. Perennial plants appreciate a dose of compost mixed into the bottom of the hole. For plant-specific details, refer to the crop descriptions later in this chapter. Once transplanted, shade the plants if necessary and water when needed. Extra care at the beginning of growth will result in productive, healthy plants. Irrigating the Home Garden Adequate soil moisture is essential for good crop growth. A healthy plant is composed of 75 to 90 percent water. Water is used for a plant’s vital functions, including photosynthesis, support (rigidity) and transportation of nutrients and sugars to various parts of the plant. During the first 2 weeks of growth, plants are becoming established and must have water to build their root systems. During growth, vegetable crops need about an inch of water per week from rain, irrigation or both. Keep a rain gauge near the garden or check with the local weather bureau for rainfall amounts. Supplement rainfall with irrigation water as needed. During dry periods, a single thorough, weekly watering of 1 to 2 inches of water (65 to 130 gallons per 100 square feet) is usually enough for most soils. Soils should be wetted to a depth of 5 to 6 inches each time you water and not watered again until the top few inches begin to dry. Average garden soil will store about 2 to 4 inches of water per foot of depth. Reducing Water Demands There are ways to reduce the amount of water you have to add. The first step toward improving moisture conditions in the garden is to add organic matter. Soil moisture may not be available to plants, particularly if the soil is a heavy clay which tends to retain water. For example, if there are 4½ inches of water per foot in a heavy clay soil, there may be as little as 1½ inches of water available for plants. A relatively high level of humus in the soil, brought about by the addition and breakdown of organic matter, can increase the water available to plants. By causing clay particles to form aggregates or large clumps of particles, humus also increases the porosity of tight clays, thus allowing moisture to drain to lower levels as a reserve instead of puddling and running off the top of the soil. The moisture-holding capacity of sandy soils is also improved by adding organic matter. Although most water in sandy soil is available for plants, it drains so quickly that even a few days after a rain, plants are unable to reach water. Humus in sandy soil gives the water something to cling to until it is needed by plants. Mulching can significantly decrease supplemental water requirements. A 4- to 6-inch layer of organic mulch can reduce water needs by as much as 50 percent by smothering weeds (which take up and transpire moisture) and by reducing evaporation of moisture directly from the soil. Organic mulches hold some water themselves and increase the humidity level around a plant. Black plastic mulch also conserves moisture, but it may dramatically increase soil temperatures during summer (to the detriment of some plants and the benefit of others) if not covered by other mulch materials or foliage. Shading and windbreaks can also help conserve moisture. Plants that wilt in very sunny areas can benefit from partial shade in the afternoon; in particular, small plants should be protected. Air movement carries moisture away from leaf surfaces, causing the plant to need more water. In windy areas, roots often cannot keep up with leaf demands, and the plant wilts. Thus, temporary or permanent windbreaks can significantly reduce supplemental water needs. When rainfall is sparse, temperatures are high and cultural practices do not seem to be effective, supplemental water may save the garden. When properly used, irrigation can benefit the garden in many ways including the following:
Irrigation Methods The home gardener has several options for watering plants, a sprinkler can, a garden hose with a fan nozzle or spray attachment, portable lawn sprinklers, a perforated plastic soaker hose, drip or trickle irrigation or a semiautomatic drip system. If properly maintained, quality equipment will last for a number of years. There are many considerations in selecting watering equipment. One of the best ways to water a garden is with a drip irrigation system. Drip irrigation is the controlled application of water at a very low flow over a prolonged period. It differs from conventional watering systems in that the soil is not supersaturated with water. When the rate of drip irrigation is adjusted correctly, there are no puddles of water and no runoff. Some drip systems use small water-releasing mechanisms called emitters which drip a certain volume of water when a certain amount of water pressure is supplied. Many of these systems are prepackaged and allow little versatility or adaptation to various garden sizes and shapes. Several systems currently available in garden centers can be easily adapted to almost any garden size and situation. The most common system has small holes in plastic tubes which allow the water to come out in small amounts. The tube is placed along the row so that the root zone is moistened by the dripping water. Holes are prepunched in the tubing at 12-inch intervals so that adequate water is available for all vegetable crops. Once the drip irrigation system is in place and operating, the question always arises as to how long it should be used. A general recommendation is to operate the system three hours a day on alternating days, such as Monday, Wednesday and Friday. When rainfall is adequate, it is not necessary to water for several days. To insure adequate moisture when the garden is planted, apply at least 2 inches of water to the planting zone before seeding or transplanting (pre-irrigation). Be sure the rows are well-firmed at the time of pre-irrigation so the water moves laterally in the soil as well as downward. In many cases, sprinkling the entire garden area may be necessary to settle the soil enough for drip irrigation water to move horizontally and not go straight down in the rows. This is especially necessary in gardens with sandy soil. Following are some basic techniques and principles for watering. 1. Adjust the flow or rate of water application to about ½ inch per hour. A faster rate will only result in runoff unless the soil has exceptionally good drainage. To determine sprinkler rates, place small tin cans at various places within the sprinkler’s reach check the water level in the cans at 15-minute intervals. 2. When using oscillating lawn sprinklers, place the sprinkler on a platform higher than the crop to prevent water from being diverted by plant leaves. Keep the water pattern even by frequently moving the sprinkler and overlapping about one-half of each pattern. 3. Do not sprinkle foliage in late afternoon or evening. Watering in the morning is preferable because wet foliage at night encourages diseases. 4. Perforated plastic hoses or soaker hoses should be placed along one side of the crop row or underneath mulch. Water is allowed to slowly soak or seep into the soil. 5. It is best to add enough water to soak the soil to a depth of 5 to 6 inches. It takes approximately 2/3 gallon of water for each square foot or about 65 to 130 gallons for 100 square feet of garden area. However, this varies according to the nature of the soil. Frequent, light watering only encourages shallow rooting and causes plants to suffer more readily during drought periods, especially if mulches are not used. On the other hand, too much water can be as damaging to plant growth as too little water, especially in poorly drained soils. 6. By knowing the critical watering periods for selected vegetables or vegetable types, you can reduce supplemental water needs. This is particularly important where water is limited. In general, adequate water is most critical during the first few weeks of development, immediately after transplanting and during development of edible storage organs. 7. In areas prone to repeated drought, look for drought-resistant varieties when buying seed or plants. 8. If water supplies are short in your area and you wish to use gray water (waste water from household uses) on your vegetable garden, a few rules should be observed. Apply gray water to the soil, but not to plant leaves. Do not use “black water” (water run through the toilet) because of possible contamination from fecal organisms. Avoid using kitchen waste water that contains grease, harsh cleaners, ammonia, bleach, non-biodegradable detergents or softeners. If using water from the bathtub or washing machine, use only mild, biodegradable soaps, omitting softeners and bleaches. If possible, allow wash and rinse water to mix, thus diluting the soap content. Never apply water containing a borax product (such as washing soda) to a garden because of the danger of plant-toxic levels of boron. Fertilizing the Garden The amount of fertilizer to apply to a garden depends on the natural fertility of the soil, the amount of organic matter present, the type of fertilizer used and the crops being grown. The best way to determine fertilizer needs is to have the soil tested. Soil testing is available through your local Extension agent or private laboratories and with soil testing kits which can be purchased from garden shops and catalogs. Vegetables can be grouped into three main categories according to their fertilizer requirements: heavy feeders, medium feeders and light feeders. It may be advantageous to group crops in the garden according to their fertilizer requirements for easier application. Weed Control in the Garden The old saying, “1 year’s weed - 7 years’ seed,” contains more truth than myth, as most gardeners soon learn. Weeds (some native and some introduced) are remarkably adapted to conditions in the area where they grow, usually much more so than the imported, cultured vegetables used for food. Many weeds which would otherwise not be growing in a lawn or natural area seem to magically appear when the soil is cultivated. Weed seeds can remain viable for those 7 (or more) years, even when conditions are not suitable for weed growth. When brought to the surface by tilling and uninhibited by sod, shade or other factors, weed seeds germinate and become pests, taking water, nutrients, sunlight and space away from vegetable plants. Cultivation There are several ways to rid the garden of most problem plants. Since mature weeds extract large quantities of moisture and nutrients from the soil, it is more beneficial (and easier) to remove weeds when they are young and tender. Hand-pulling and digging are appropriate for small gardens and raised beds, but a hoe may be better suited for large garden areas. Manually-powered rotary cultivators do a good job on long rows and pathways as long as the soil is not too wet or dry and the weeds are small. In large gardens, a tiller of appropriate size makes the work easy and fast, but it is not the most pleasant chore to get behind a smoky, noisy engine on a hot summer day. Both manual and electric rotary cultivators are usually unable to turn weeds under very close to vegetable plants without damaging the vegetables. Hoeing with a light touch or hand-pulling are best for removing weeds near vegetable plants. Deep cultivation with any instrument is likely to damage roots or stems of crop plants. Turning weeds under, especially before they flower, provides soil with organic matter. Hand-pulled weeds (except rhizomatous grasses AND PURSLANE, THAT SETS SEED EVEN AFTER BEING PULLED) may be laid on top of the soil to dry and will eventually add organic matter to the soil. However, if rain is predicted in the area within a day or two, it is best to collect the weeds and add them to the compost pile. Rain will wash soil around the roots and some weeds will survive. If weeds have started to go to seed, they should not be left in the garden. If the compost pile doesn’t heat up enough after weeds are added, weed seeds may not be destroyed. Grasses that spread by rhizomes or stolons also present a problem if not completely dried. In these cases, despite their potential value as organic material, it is better to completely remove the weeds from the garden area. Reducing weed growth around the garden by mowing or other means will also help prevent the spread of weeds and seeds to the garden area. Cultivation is best done when the soil is somewhat moist but not wet. Working wet soil will change soil structure, especially in heavy soils. When it is too dry, weeds are hard to pull and hoeing is also difficult. A day or two after rain or irrigation is probably the best time to cultivate. If you have a choice, remember that the work will be much more pleasant in the cool temperatures of early morning or evening. On hot summer afternoons, you are likely to become fatigued more easily, get sunburned or suffer from sun poisoning, sunstroke or worse. Wear protective clothing if you must work when it is sunny and stop frequently for rest and refreshment. Mulching Mulching can be an alternative to weeding if you have a reliable source of mulching materials. Thick layers of organic mulch will prevent most annual weeds from appearing and any that do are usually easy to pull. Weeds with runners are often not as easily controlled; black plastic mulch may be a better choice where these prevail. For walkways or paths, excellent weed suppression is provided by newspaper, old carpeting or similar materials covered with sawdust. However, do not use sawdust in the immediate area of vegetable plants. Sawdust has a tendency to crust, and bacteria that decompose sawdust take nitrogen from the soils and thus from the plants. Various Mulches Available Mulch is defined as any material spread on the garden to protect root plants from heat, cold or drought; to reduce problems with weeds; and to keep fruit clean. Mulching materials can be: Clear plastic - Clear plastic warms the soil more than most other mulches, stimulating weed seed germination and growth. It also can be laid over seeded rows to stimulate early vegetable seed germination. Remove the plastic as soon as seedlings emerge. If weeds are not a problem, clear plastic is an excellent mulching material. Black plastic - Black plastic makes the soil warmer early in the season and greatly reduces the weed population. Black plastic, however, will not control nutgrass. Adequate soil moisture should be available when black plastic is applied. Cut holes through the plastic after it is applied over the bed to allow for seeding or transplanting. Water by using drip systems or water soakers beneath the plastic, by furrow watering or by sprinkling. If sprinklers are used, it may be necessary to cut T-slits in the plastic for water penetration. Paper - Various types of paper are used as mulches, with newspaper being by far the most common. Several sheets of newspaper laid flat over the surface of the garden row work well as a mulch. However, paper reduces soil temperature. Paper mulch used early in spring when the soil is cold causes delayed maturity of many garden vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, squash, etc. For these crops, paper can be applied after crops are growing and the soil has warmed up. Paper mulch will not delay cool-season, spring-planted crops such as lettuce, broccoli and cabbage, as much as warm-season plants. As with black plastic, apply paper when the soil contains adequate moisture. Unlike plastic, paper deteriorates and does not have to be removed at the end of the gardening season. Organic mulches - Organic mulches are by far the most common. Benefits of organic mulches are gained primarily in summer because they reduce soil temperature and save soil moisture. Do not use organic mulches too early in spring. If applied to cold garden soils, the soils warm up more slowly and crop maturity is reduced. Organic mulches prevent soil crusting, control weeds, prevent erosion, lessen fruit rot, conserve moisture and reduce soil temperatures during summer. After the soil warms, apply organic mulches to a depth of 1 to 2 inches around growing plants. With organic materials such as sawdust, leaves, rice hulls, etc., it usually is necessary to increase the amount of garden fertilizer by about one-fourth to compensate for the nutrients used by microorganisms during the breakdown process. At the end of the season, turn organic mulches under to improve the soil’s physical condition. Close Spacing Weed growth can be effectively inhibited if established vegetable plants have been planted close enough to each other to shade the soil. This is achieved by a well-planned, raised bed in which plants are spaced so that the foliage of adjacent plants touches and forms a closed canopy when the plants are mature. Other Practices Some gardeners are experimenting with various types of no-till gardening to reduce weed problems and prevent erosion and moisture loss. The standard farming no-till practice of sowing a fall cover crop, killing it with herbicide and planting vegetables in the dead sod after a recommended waiting period is one method. However, there are presently no herbicides recommended for use in established home vegetable gardens to kill emerged weeds. Use of weed-killers normally recommended for lawns or other areas is not advised. Until a safe herbicide is available, this type of no-till practice is unsafe for growing vegetables in the home garden. One alternative is the use of a living sod, mowed regularly, which has many of the benefits of no-till and does not necessitate the use of herbicides. This practice works best with raised beds so that only the paths need to be mowed. The use of cover crops over several seasons or years in a particularly weedy section can also reduce weed problems; however, this method requires leaving that part uncultivated, thus reducing gardening space. Cover crops must also be mowed or harvested regularly, which can be both time-consuming and difficult without appropriate tools. Thoroughly investigate crop rotations before using cover crops to control weeds. All of the above techniques are still in the experimental stage for home gardeners. Try them in small sections of the garden to determine their effectiveness. Herbicides As mentioned previously, herbicides may be used in and around home gardens, but they can be risky. They should always be used according to label instructions and only for crops listed on the label. The wrong herbicide can destroy a garden’s productivity for years. Even when properly used, the drift from herbicides sprayed on lawns or in areas surrounding the garden can damage vegetable plants. Take care to spray on windless days and erect barriers to protect plants if necessary. Drift from preemergence herbicides does not damage growing plants but may prevent seed germination. Be aware that treatment with a herbicide for one type of weed may result in the area being colonized by other weeds which are tolerant to the chemical. Finally, never use an herbicide in the same sprayer used for insect and disease control; keep a separate sprayer for herbicide use only. Vegetable Planting Guide and Recommended Varieties The charts shown in ALb. Weather can be used to determine the average date of the last spring frost and the first fall frost in our area. Actual dates vary due to local conditions and yearly temperature fluctuations. An important factor in successful vegetable gardening is choosing the best varieties. Table 6.5 lists vegetable varieties recommended for New Mexico. These varieties have shown superior production in vegetable trials conducted by the New Mexico Extension Service. The vegetable planting guide can be used to approximate the proper amount of crop to plant for the desired yield, the amount of seed or transplants required for that amount of crop and proper spacing between plants in a row. Intensive Gardening Methods The purpose of an intensively grown garden is to harvest the most produce possible from a given space. More traditional gardens consist of long, single rows of vegetables widely spaced apart. Much of the garden area is taken by the space between rows. An intensive garden reduces wasted space to a minimum. The practice of intensive gardening is not just for those with limited garden space; rather, an intensive garden concentrates work efforts to create an ideal plant environment, providing better yields with less labor. Though its benefits are many, the intensive garden may not be for everyone. Some people enjoy seeing long, straight rows in their gardens. Others prefer machine cultivation to hand weeding although there is often less weeding to do in intensive plantings because of fewer pathways and closely-spaced plants. Any necessary weeding is usually done by hand or with hand tools. Other gardeners like to plant their gardens in a very short period of time and have harvests come in all at once. The purpose of intensive gardening is to have something growing in every part of the garden at all times during the growing season. A good intensive garden requires early and thorough planning to make the best use of time and space in the garden. Interrelationships of plants must be considered before planting, including nutrient needs, shade tolerance, above ground and below ground growth patterns and preferred growing season. Using the techniques described below, anyone can develop a high yielding intensive garden. The Raised Bed The raised bed or growing bed is the basic unit of an intensive garden. A system of beds allows the gardener to concentrate soil preparation in small areas, resulting in effective use of soil amendments and creating an ideal environment for vegetable growth. Beds are generally 3 to 4 feet wide and as long as desired. The gardener works from either side of the bed, reducing soil compaction caused by walking on the bed. Soil preparation is the key to successful intensive gardening. To grow so close together, plants must have adequate nutrients and water. Providing extra fertilizers and irrigation will help, but there is no substitute for deep, fertile soil rich in organic matter. Humus-rich soil will hold extra nutrients. Existing elements that are “locked up” in the soil are released by the actions of earthworms, microorganisms and acids present in a life-filled soil, thus making them available for plant use. If your soil is not deep, double-dig the beds for best results. Remove the top 12 inches of soil from the bed. Insert a spade or spading fork into the next 10 to 12 inches of soil and wiggle the handle back and forth to break up any compacted layers. Do this every 6 to 8 inches throughout the bed. Mix the top soil with a generous amount of compost or manure and return the mixture to the bed. It should be somewhat fluffy and may be slightly raised. To create a true raised bed, take topsoil from the neighboring pathways and mix it in as well. This is a lot of work! Try it in one or two beds for some of your most valuable plants. If you like the results, you can proceed to other beds as you have time. One nice thing about raised bed gardening is that it breaks work into units. Instead of desperately gazing at a garden full of weeds, thinking you will never have time to clean it up, you can look at each bed and say, “I can do that today!” Other chores are accomplished with the same ease. By their nature, raised beds are a form of wide-bed gardening. Seeds and transplants can be planted in wide bands of several rows or broadcast in a wide strip. In general, the goal is to space the plants at equal distances from each other so that when the plants reach maturity, leaves on all sides will touch. Not only does this save space, the close plantings reduce moisture loss from surrounding soil and help control weed growth. Vertical Gardening The use of trellises, nets, strings, cages or poles to support growing plants is known as vertical gardening. This technique is especially well-suited for small garden spaces, but can be used in gardens of all sizes. Vining and sprawling plants, such as cucumbers, tomatoes, melons and pole beans, are obvious candidates for vertical gardening. Some plants entwine themselves onto the support, while others may need to be tied. Remember that vertical planting will cast a shadow. Be careful not to shade sun-loving crops, or alternatively, take advantage of the shade by planting shade-tolerant crops near vertical crops. Vertically-grown plants need much less ground space; although the yield per plant may be less, the yield per square foot of garden space is much greater. Because vertically grown plants are more exposed, they dry out faster and may need to be watered more frequently than if they were allowed to spread over the ground. Rapid drying is also an advantage to those plants susceptible to fungal diseases. Soil should be deep and well-drained to allow roots to extend vertically and to avoid competition with other roots in shallow soil. Interplanting Growing two or more types of vegetables in the same place at the same time is known as interplanting. Proper planning is essential to obtain high production and increased crop quality. This technique has been practiced for thousands of years, but it is just now gaining widespread support in this country. To successfully plan an interplanted garden, the following factors must be taken into account for each plant:
Interplanting can be accomplished by alternating rows within a bed (plant a row of peppers next to a row of onions), by mixing plants within a row or by distributing various species throughout the bed. For the beginner, alternating rows may be the easiest to manage. Long-season (slow to mature) and short-season (quick to mature) plants, like carrots and radishes, respectively, can be planted at the same time. The radishes are harvested before they begin to crowd the carrots. An example of combining growth patterns is planting smaller plants close to larger plants, such as radishes at the base of beans or broccoli. Shade-tolerant species, like lettuce, spinach and greens, may be planted in the shadow of taller crops. Heavy feeders, such as crops in the cabbage family, should be interplanted with light feeders. Interplanting may help keep insect and disease problems under control. Pests are generally crop-specific, which means that they prefer vegetables of one type or family. Mixing families of plants helps break up large areas of the pest-preferred crop, thus helping to contain early pest damage within a small area. This gives the gardener a little more time to control the problem. However, one disadvantage is that when pesticides are used, it is difficult to be sure that all plants are protected. Spacing Individual plants are closely spaced in a raised bed or interplanted garden. An equidistant spacing pattern calls for plants to be the same distance from each other within the bed space plants so that the center of one plant is the same distance from plants on all sides of it. In beds with more than two rows, plants should be staggered so that plants in every other row are equally spaced from plants in adjacent rows. On a seed packet, the distance recommended for plants within the row is the distance from the center of one plant to the center of the next. This results in an efficient use of space, leaving less area for weeding and mulching. Close spacing tends to create a nearly solid leaf canopy, acting as a living mulch, decreasing water loss and keeping weed problems down. However, plants should not be crowded to the point at which disease problems develop or competition causes stunting. Succession and Relay Planting Succession planting is an excellent way to make the most of an intensive garden. To obtain a succession of crops, plant something new in spots vacated by spent plants. Corn after peas is one type of succession. Planting a spring, summer and fall garden is another form of succession planting. Cool-season crops (broccoli, lettuce, peas) are followed by warm-season crops (beans, tomatoes, peppers). In most areas of New Mexico, these can be followed by more cool-season plants or even a winter cover crop. Relaying is another common practice whereby plants of one crop are overlapped; the new planting is made before the old one is removed. For instance, sweet corn can be planted at 2-week intervals for a continuous harvest. This requires some care because crops planted very early are likely to get a slower start because of low temperatures. In the case of corn, it can be disastrous to have two varieties pollinating at the same time as the quality of the kernels may be affected. For best results, give early-planted corn extra time to get started. Another way to achieve the same result is to simultaneously plant various maturing varieties of the same vegetable. For example, you can plant an early-season, mid-season and late-season corn at the same time to have a lengthy harvest. Starting seed indoors for transplanting is an important aspect of intensive gardening. To get the most from the garden plot, a new crop should be ready to take the place of the crop being removed. Several weeks may be gained by having 6-inch transplants ready for newly-vacated areas. Don’t forget to recondition the soil for new plants. Planning an Intensive Garden Begin planning your garden early. When the cold days of winter seem never-ending, pull out last year’s garden records and start looking through new seed catalogs. With any garden, you must decide which crops you want to grow based on your own preferences as well as on how much of each crop you will need. A record of which cultivars were most successful or tasted best is helpful in making crop choices. Rely on your own experience to determine which crops are likely combinations. Good gardening practices, such as watering, fertilizing, crop rotation, composting and sanitation, are especially important in an intensive garden. An intensive garden requires more detailed planning, but the time saved in working the garden and the increased yields make it well worthwhile. Use your imagination and have fun! Economic Value of Crops It is difficult to evaluate the economic value of crops grown in the vegetable garden because of the different lengths of time they require for maturity and harvest. In addition, the availability of varieties and vegetable types not generally found in the marketplace and the lack of comparison values for vegetables that are not acceptable by commercial standards (cracked tomatoes, crooked cucumbers, etc.), but which are perfectly usable by the home gardener make economic evaluation more difficult. Nevertheless, several studies have attempted to determine which crops bring the most value per square foot of garden space, partly to aid small-space gardeners in making decisions about what to plant. Of course, if no one in the family likes beets, there is no point in growing them just because they are economically valuable. Asparagus, rhubarb, horseradish and other perennial crops also have considerable economic worth. Remember that value per square foot may be increased by planting miniature varieties or crops suited for vertical gardening. 02/01/2009
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Go to nmmastergardeners.org/ to find these and other articles in a pdf. format that you may use to print out a book with much of this material from that web site. Those articles, however, may not have been modified since they were originally printed in 2001.
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